Chemical Exfoliants
AHA, BHA, PHA! So chemical exfoliants really do suit all different skin types. It just depends on the formulation. Chemical exfoliants, like AHA, BHA, and PHA, are acids derived from fruit or plant extracts. So when you see things, like papaya enzyme, pumpkin, or pomegranate, and a slew of other ones, these are actually forms of gentle chemical exfoliants. When applied to our skin, the main benefit is that it helps to unstick the gluey substance that holds our skin cells together on the epidermis layer of our skin. So what it does is help break down the excess buildup of dead skin cells on the surface to unclog pores and help keep the skin looking healthy and bright. And if you have acne and breakouts , this is something that you definitely want to look for to help with preventing future breakouts. Because, as we know, a lot of acne and breakouts is caused from dead skin sebum and bacteria that's trapped in the pores and in need of some chemical exfoliants to really help break free.
Another main benefit has to do with our skin's process of cell turnover. Day by day, our basal cell layer at the bottom of the epidermis is producing new skin cells. Which then eventually gets pushed towards the top of the epidermis layer. Which then means the skin on the very tippy top is getting shed, fluttering off into the wind. And literally covering every single surface of- And turning into dust. But before it flies away, this layer of skin is really important. Because it acts as a shield to protect us against things, like UV damage, bacteria, dust, and other potentially harmful environmental factors. Depending on your age, this process can take anywhere between 14 to 45 days. With younger folks having faster rates of cell turnover and older people having slower rates. When you decide to use things that contain chemical exfoliants, you're essentially helping to speed up that cell renewal rate, which can quicken up the cell replacement process and then leave you with smoother and brighter skin.
Three types of exfoliants
Alpha Hydroxy Acids
Let's start with AHA! So AHA stand for Alpha Hydroxy Acids, and they are water soluble . Which means that they'll work on the surface layer of the skin and stay away from oil-based areas, like the lining of hair follicles and deep within our pores. Which we'll get into later because that goes into BHA. Here's a breakdown of the types of AHAs you can find in your products. The first one is glycolic acid. It is one of the more popular AHAs in the skincare world. And for good reason too. It's highly effective and super potent. Glycolic acid is derived from sugar canes. It actually has the smallest molecular size compared to the other AHAs, which means it's able to penetrate deeper into the skin and work its magic. But for people who aren't used to glycolic acid, it's possible to find it slightly irritating specifically for that reason because it is traveling deeper down. Yeah, that's why you'll find they say nothing more than 10% should be used at home because you can go to the spa and get a 20% peel. But leave that to the professionals!
Next, we have lactic acid. It is derived from sour milk, but it is a far gentler alternative and well sought after by people with sensitive skin as it has a larger molecular size than glycolic. That is true because the very first chemical exfoliating product. So lactic acid can even help retain some of the moisture in our skin due to its having humectant properties, protect against harmful bacteria due to its antimicrobial properties, and also reduce hyperpigmentation.
Next, we have mandelic acid. It is so underrated! So this acid is also a popular exfoliant found especially in Asian beauty products. Derived from bitter almonds, mandelic acid is rich in antioxidants and has antibacterial properties that can benefit especially oily and acne-prone skin types. And then we have malic acid, and this acid is found in many fruits and veggies again. But it's commonly associated with apples! An apple a day keeps the pimples away! And if you've seen products incorporating apple cider vinegar to brighten the skin and tighten the appearance of pores, malic acid is the reason why. Kind of like the Glow Recipe mist that's got apple cider vinegar.
Now we have citric acid. And as the name suggests, citric acid is derived from citrus fruits, and it's commonly used in conjunction again with other exfoliants to help brighten up the skin tone. Usually citric acid helps regulate pH levels in your product and can also act as a preservative. Then we have tartaric acid, and this one is derived from grapes and is rich in antioxidants. And currently, it's not as widely researched as maybe something like glycolic acid and lactic acid. But it's found that tartaric acid can help to also moisturize the skin and promote healing.
Beta hydroxy acids
BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, are oil-soluble acids that can reach into the oiliest part of our skin, like our hair follicles and pores. In there, the acids are able to soak up excess buildup of sebum and oils from within the pore that will otherwise clog up and become a pimple. They're also known for calming down inflammation and minimizing the appearance of enlarged pores. The salicylic acid, which is a very common ingredient that you'll find across many many products, from your cleansers to toners to serums to moisturizers. They're basically in every type of product and especially BHA spot treatments. The great thing about salicylic acid we found is that it's able to decrease the secretion of sebum in people with acne-prone skin, which can help lead to less breakouts overall. And it's also a great anti-inflammatory and can also help people who are facing things, like open and closed comedones and hyperpigmentation. So there's a lot of great benefits for salicylic acid. Here are some derivatives of BHA. There's willow bark, which is known as salix alba, wintergreen leaves, and sweet birch bark extract. Birch bark! You'll always see them in the back of the ingredients. Another derivative you might commonly see is betaine salicylate. And this is derived from sugar beets and is considered the alternative to salicylic acid, especially in countries where salicylic acid is banned or restricted. Another derivative is lipo hydroxy acid. Like its distinct and famous cousin, lipo hydroxy acid also has exfoliating and acne-treating properties. It also has a large molecular size, which indicates it can be beneficial for sensitive skin types.
Poly hydroxy acid
PHA was kind of a new one. You probably won't be able to find them as abundantly as the other ones because they're not marketed usually as PHA. And the reason why I think they named it PHA is because it contains the two types of PHA, which is known as gluconalectone as well as lactobionic acid. It also contains mandelic acid! So I think the formulation of this one is predominantly designed for people with easily irritated and sensitive skin. And it's also got the hydrating qualities with hyaluronic acid. So the texture of this is very similar to the Mandelic [Topical Acid 12%] because these are more chemical exfoliating treatments, as opposed to actual serum. So Naturium serums that we've used - the Vitamin C or the Niacinamide. Those are generally a bit goopier. These are both a little bit more watery.
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